KURT DIEMBERGER
Kurt Diemberger is the only remaining person alive that made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 meters.

On June 9th, 1957, Diemberger made the first ascent of Broad Peak. The others members of the expedition were Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck and Hermann Buhl.

K. Diemberger made the first ascent to Dhaulagiri on May 13th, 1960 with Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji, who were all members of a Swiss-Austrian expedition.

Diemberger was one of only two survivors in the 1986 K2 disaster. On August 4, 1986, Diemberger and Julie Tullis reached the summit of K2 very late in the day. Shortly after starting their descent, Tullis fell and dragged Diemberger down with her. Fortunately, they somehow stopped from going over the edge and spent the night above 8,000 metres. They managed to reach Camp IV the next day, where they were forced to share a tent with six other climbers after their tent had collapsed from hurricane force winds. Unfortunately, Tullis died later that night, possibly from high altitude cerebral edema (HACE), and only one other climber survived the descent with Diemberger.

Kurt Diembergerís eight-thousanders:
1957 Broad Peak (8.047 m.) First ascent
1960 Dhaulagiri (8.167 m.) First ascent
1978 Makalu (8.467 m.)
1978 Everest (8.848 m.)
1979 Gasherbrum II (8.035 m.)
1983 Broad Peak (8.047 m.)
1986 K2 (8.611 m.)